We’re wrapping up our little journey through the world of aperitif stories with a look at the after-dinner side of things – specifically, amaro.
It’s an intriguing, wildly diverse category that’s as fascinating as it is complicated to classify.
If you missed the earlier chapters, catch up here:
- Pt. 1: Vermouth – history, styles, and how it’s made
- Pt. 2: Americano, Quinquina, and other wine-based aperitifs
Alright, let’s dive in.
What, Where, and When
“Amaro” literally translates from Italian as “bitter”, and it refers to an herbal liqueur with a bittersweet flavour profile.
We owe its creation to monks in southern Italy, who picked up the art of distilling wine from the Arabs and began experimenting with both “the water of life” and medicinal concoctions.
Alcohol, as we know, is excellent for extracting and preserving the healing properties of herbs, spices, roots, and citrus – you get the idea. Soon, those same monks were creating unique bittersweet herbal elixirs they simply called “elixir.”
By the 16th century, these potions had spread across Europe, thanks in large part to Catherine de’ Medici, who married Henry II of France and introduced the French aristocracy to what would become the ancestors of modern liqueurs.
Commercial production of amaro kicked off in the 19th century, moving from small-scale monastic or local production into the hands of established companies. The one thing that never changed? Every producer guarded their recipe like a state secret – some still make their amaro using formulas that are hundreds of years old.
Two notable names in its rise:
- Salvatore Averna – one of the first true amaro brand ambassadors, tirelessly promoting his family’s recipe.
- Gabriele D’Annunzio – an Italian writer and die-hard Amaro Montenegro fan, who wrote about it so fondly that his words helped spread the drink’s fame.
How It’s Made
One of amaro’s defining traits is the complete lack of standardisation or regional control over how it’s produced.The process is maceration – botanicals are steeped in a base spirit (neutral alcohol or wine), then filtered, sweetened, and aged in barrels or bottles.
The choice of base can vary wildly – anything from neutral beet molasses spirit to aromatic grappa. Botanicals? That’s where things get wild. While gentian, citrus peel, saffron, wormwood, fennel, juniper, sage, lemon balm, liquorice, thyme, and anise are common, recipes often include dozens of ingredients.
The (Mostly) Agreed-Upon Classification
There’s no absolute consensus, but here’s a breakdown that covers both tradition and reality:
Non-Italian Bitter Liqueurs
Made all over Europe but technically not “amaro” unless Italian.
Examples: Kräuterlikör (Germany), Picon (France), Zwack Unicum (Hungary).
Bitters-Aperitifs
The Campari/Aperol debate: some argue they’re too aperitif-focused to be amaro, others say they’re simply the lighter cousins in the family. Even Campari’s own team has called it amaro.
Examples: Campari, Aperol, Suze, Martini Bitter.
Light Amaro
Bright, citrusy, pleasantly bitter.
Examples: Amaro Nonino, Vecchio Amaro del Capo.
Medium Amaro
Bittersweet with bold citrus notes, ABV around 30%.
Examples: Amaro Averna, Amaro Montenegro, Ramazzotti, Amaro Bio.
Alpine Amaro
Botanicals sourced from Alpine regions, often with a smoky edge and mountain imagery on the label.
Examples: Amaro Alpino, Amaro Zara.
Vermouth Amaro
Wine-based, lower ABV (~18%), very close to vermouth in taste.
Examples: Amaro Don Bairo, Barbero Diesus.
Carciofo Amaro
Artichoke-based – typically enjoyed as an aperitif.
Examples: Cynar, Carciofo.
Rabarbaro Amaro
Rhubarb is the star here.
Example: Zucco.
Tartufo Amaro
Made in Umbria with black truffle. Strong (around 30% ABV).
Examples: Amaro al Tartufo, Amaro al Tartufo Nero di Norcia.
China Amaro
Centred on cinchona bark (same as quinine in tonic water).
Example: China Martini.
Fernet
A category within a category – intensely bitter, aromatic, and unmistakable.
Debate rages between Italy (credit to Bernardino Branca, 1845) and the Czech Republic (Fernet Stock, 20th century) over who invented it first. Most of the world sides with the Italians.
Examples: Fernet Branca, Luxardo Fernet, Amaro Santa Maria al Monte.
That’s a Wrap
And that’s our grand finale for this three-part aperitif-and-digestif adventure.
Taste, explore, and remember – drink beautifully, drink mindfully.
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Stay boozy, stay nerds
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